One of the best curated—and most newsworthy—culinary events in 2024 is arguably the Four Hands Collab dinner by chef Jordan Andino and chef Francis “Kiko” Tolentino at Taupe, BGC—an experience that saw two culinary masters who allowed their careers to take flight abroad without losing sight of their roots. To be precise, their memorable childhood with their lola. Thus it was fitting that Four Hands Collab had nostalgia for its theme. That evening last August (sold-out Aug. 23-25 dinners) was a gustatory experience that was almost poignant as it looked back to the growing up years of the two chefs.
Chef Francis Tolentino and chef Jordan Andino, in Taupe’s Four Hand Collab, will open dining-concept restaurant soon.
The menu wasn’t pretentious, as gourmet dinners tend to be, but was, for want of a better word, relatable, yet imaginative. For instance, tapioca chicharon with wagyu balut (Streetfood Nostalgia), or tiger prawn (Lola’s Merienda). Clearly these boys now grown successful men were well and specially fed by their lolas. Chef Francis continues this nostalgia-theme menu at Taupe this September.
This collaboration was the meeting of two continents: America, where the Canadian-born chef Jordan is based, in New York, at Carriage House; Metro Manila, where chef Francis started Taupe, the dining-concept restaurant in BGC, after his stints in Miami and New York.
According to Taupe’s written account, the collaboration began in 2019 when chef Jordan met chef Francis on the former’s visit to Manila. The meeting led to a synergy formed by the common desire to break culinary boundaries. Then chef Francis thought of nostalgia as their collaboration theme.
Chef Francis told TheDiarist.ph: “Collaborating with chef Jordan has definitely been a fulfilling experience. Our theme centered around nostalgia, and it was deeply personal for us; this is what I wanted the direction to be for our second menu as well. He shared memories of his family and mentors through his dishes, which resonated with me because doing so brought a sense of authenticity and personal connection to the menu. We both lived with our grandparents and later, visited frequently, kind of moving around a bit to different homes. His memories of past foods blended seamlessly with mine, creating a rich tapestry of flavors and emotions that enhanced our collaboration.”
Francis Flores, the marketing visionary who established Taupe, told TheDiarist.ph about how he saw the collaboration as an experience: “This theme not only added a personal touch to the menu but also created a cohesive and emotional dining experience.”
Chef Jordan told TheDiarist.ph that this collab was only the start. He believes that Filipino cuisine is set for the global stage any time now: “I believe the Filipino cuisine is poised for the global stage. Collaborations like ours with chef Francis are crucial in elevating its profile by blending Filipino flavors and techniques with the latest dining and food trends from New York. We’re showcasing innovation in fine dining settings, aiming to appeal to foreign palates, while honoring Filipino culinary traditions. There’s immense potential here, and clearly, there’s a significant market gap that we’re eager to fill.”
Chef Francis said, “We wanted not only to showcase our individual talents but also celebrate the richness of Filipino flavors.”
Just how Filipino flavors seeped into the cutting-edge contemporary fare? Here’s the Four Hands Collab menu: Tapioca Crackling, Japanese Wagyu with Wagyu Bone Marrow, Burnt Onion Jam; Tiger Prawn with Israeli Couscous, Serrano Chillis; Scallops, Gamet Seaweed; Corn Veloute, Ricotta, Parmigiano Reggiano; Iberico Secreto Suman; Herb Steak, Horseradish Cream Puree, Pomme Pave; Japanese Corn, Queso de Bola; Olive Oil Cake, Crème Anglaise, Salted Caramel.
Tiger Prawn, for instance, was the after-school merienda of childhood, updated to today’s culinary technique. Gamet seaweed is from Ilocos, topped with scallops. Iberico Secreto is grilled pork with suman infused with crab fat.
Listen to the annotation of dishes and dinner convo:
Chef Jordan and chef Francis will open a dining-concept restaurant soon. “What I want to bring to the local dining scene in the Philippines is my culinary expertise and passion. I aim to introduce my unique style and creativity while learning from and collaborating with local talents like chef Francis. Together, we can create dining experiences that are not only memorable but also resonate both locally and potentially internationally. This collaboration is a personal journey for me to connect with Filipino diners through my food, hoping to earn their respect and appreciation despite not having lived here,” chef Jordan told TheDiarist.ph. Chef Jordan has worked with such notable establishments as French Laundry and in Netflix’s Cook At All Costs.
Chef Francis said of the collab and the future project: “Working with chef Jordan was smooth and devoid of egos, which is refreshing in our industry. We respected each other’s culinary perspectives and backgrounds, merging influences from American and Filipino cuisines. This collaboration highlighted the potential for future projects where we can explore new inspirations on a larger scale, further enriching the fine dining scene here in the Philippines.”
When the Filipino thinks global, the scene turns exciting.
