Art/Style/Travel Diaries

Channeling my inner Elsa in the Swedish Lapland

From the Aurora Borealis to a real Swedish sauna, this sojourn was a frozen delight 

The 'cold' welcome at The IceHotel—with pun absolutely intended

There’s no doubt that summer is one of the most anticipated seasons of the year. The tropical heat beckons sun worshippers, and sipping a favorite cocktail while watching a magnificent sunset creates an Instagram-worthy moment.

However, there comes a point when this idyllic scene begins to lose its charm as temperatures become increasingly unbearable. You just want to beat the heat, find respite from the scorching sun, and escape to a place where the temperature drops below zero.

Fortunately, the universe conspired to let me channel my inner Elsa from Frozen. A dream sojourn to Sweden’s Arctic region with my son opened up an entirely different world for me. It’s a world that shifts your perspective on nature, culture, and even comfort itself.

Upon reaching the Swedish Lapland, the first order of business was to chase the elusive Aurora Borealis. And what better way to catch this phenomenon than to check in at the Aurora River Camp in Kiruna, Jukkasjärvi, and stay in one of its all-glass igloo cabins.

Waking up in a snow globe!

Tucked deep within the snowy landscape, this cabin and its transparent ceiling above us became our window to the Arctic Sky. The openness felt surreal, coming from a country where privacy is deeply valued and curtains are almost second nature. Yet, it felt strangely comforting sleeping beneath a canopy of stars surrounded by a snow-covered landscape.

Our luggage arrived on a sled, and despite the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere, the Wi-Fi signal was remarkably strong. That’s isolation with modern comfort for you!

Like most first-time visitors, we joined a private Aurora tour early in the evening, and made a stop at the Abisco National Park. We rode for hours with a small group, putting our trust in our guide to find the best spot to witness the Aurora Borealis.

And there it was, the elusive Aurora Borealis! Sometimes all you need is a small glimpse to feel incredibly lucky and deeply grateful.

The cold was so intense that I felt like I should have just stayed in our cabin. But just when I was about to lose hope, the unexpected happened. It began as a green ribbon twirling delicately across the sky. In an instant, phones emerged to capture the breathtaking spectacle, and the freezing cold was suddenly forgotten. Even though it was just a sliver of the Aurora and not the huge spectacle often seen online, not as dramatic, but it was still absolutely magical. In that fleeting moment, another item was finally ticked off my bucket list.

The art suites at the IceHotel, especially the 34th edition, are immersive frozen installations built by select artists from around the world. The overall look is glowing blue and white, somewhere between a luxury suite, an art gallery—and definitely an Arctic dream.

From the glass igloos, we saved the best for last and transferred to the renowned Icehotel where yet another Arctic wonder awaited—the IceHotel. Established in 1989, this frozen icon is truly a work of art. We wasted no time exploring the renowned Art Suites, where each room had been individually designed by artists selected each year from applicants around the world. From the beds to the intricate sculptures made from ice from the frozen Torne River, one can’t help but marvel at the ingenuity of transforming frozen materials into functional masterpieces.

More artworks at the IceHotel

Inspired by these creations, my son and I decided to put our creativity to the test and try an ice sculpting session ourselves. I thought it was easy-peasy, but, boy, it was hard! Yet, it turned out to be one of the highlights of our stay, giving us an even deeper appreciation of the craftsmanship and artistry behind the hotel’s magnificent design.

The famous Ice Bar at the IceHotel

The temperature hovered at around -5 degrees Celsius, but we also made a stop at the hotel’s famous Icebar, where drinks were served in glasses carved from—what else?—ice. Suffice it to say, the whole experience was hands-down cool.

What a view, from the back of the IceHotel

Another exciting part was sleeping in an all-ice room. We were asked to leave our luggage in the adjacent “warm building” and only bring the essentials. We expected to be bundled in layers and layers of thermal clothes, but we were advised to wear just a thermal base layer consisting of a long-sleeved top, long johns, a beanie, and a pair of socks. The bed may be made of ice, but you don’t lay on it directly. Reindeer hide and expedition-grade sleeping bags were on hand to keep you warm and comfy for a restful sleep.

When in Sapmi, do as the Sami do: warming up with a traditional bowl of reindeer soup

In the morning, the staff woke us up at a set time with a hot cup of lingonberry juice to perk up our day. There were lots of activities you could choose from, but we opted for the ones that would give us a glimpse of Sami culture.

On the Sami reindeer tour

Reindeer herding remains an important part of this age-old culture, so naturally, we signed up for a Sami Reindeer Tour. A short distance from the Icehotel is the Nutti Sami Siida ecotourism center, where we fed a herd of reindeer. Inside the museum, we also tried the Cafe Sapmi that serves traditional dishes like reindeer soup and Sami bread (gahkku) over an open fire.

The spaholic in me booked an authentic Nordic sauna experience. All the while I thought it came with a Swedish massage—we were in Sweden, after all!—but it had to be arranged separately way in advance, much to my disappointment. So, I found myself inside a wooden cabin soaking in the warmth of the steam from hot stones, complete with dried birch branches that filled the room with a soothing forest aroma.

All the while I thought my sauna experience came with a Swedish massage—we were in Sweden, after all!—but it had to be arranged separately way in advance

This Nordic ritual is something that many people around the world have come to love and enjoy. For Nordic people, the ritual represents resilience, purification, and harmony with nature. The heat helps melt away the stress of daily life, while the icy immersion is believed to reduce inflammation and improve circulation.

The age-old practice remains largely unchanged to this day: spending several minutes inside a small wooden cabin soaking in the steam from heated stones, before making that dreaded plunge into a carved hole with the freezing Torme River below. It could have been the ultimate Nordic sauna experience, but the thought of the sub-zero water piercing through my body like knives made me think twice, even thrice. Sadly, I just couldn’t bring myself to do it. All I could think of was the frozen Elsa!

Looking back on this ice-cold adventure, I found myself appreciating the beautiful contrast between the Arctic’s frozen stillness and the comforting warmth of the tropics. It was a reminder that wellness takes many forms across cultures.

More important, stepping into the Arctic felt like venturing far beyond my comfort zone, giving me a deeper appreciation for the simple luxuries I often take for granted: the warmth of the sun, the softness of the sand, and the familiarity of home. In the end, perhaps life at its fullest is about finding balance and embracing contrasts.


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