Nautilus 3700/1A of stainless steel and sapphire glass
The exhibition runs June 2026 until early 2027. The Patek Philippe Museum Geneva is at Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 7, Plainpalais, Geneva.
For the 50th anniversary of an icon of sporty elegance, the Thematic Exhibition: 1976–2026 of Nautilus was launched during its Open House Weekend June 6–7, 2026, at the Patek Philippe Museum, retracing 50 years of history of one of its flagship collections, the Nautilus.
Launched in 1976, the Nautilus signaled a break with the classic codes of luxury watchmaking, beginning with the choice of steel, a metal unheard of for a watch in this category, and the atypical style of its case, neither round nor rectangular, presenting an octagonal bezel with softened corners. Indeed, this was not a design created merely for the originality of its shape, but a form dictated by its function as a water-resistant watch case, inspired by the principle of a ship’s porthole.
The world of horology was perplexed and skeptical, because time still advanced at the comfortable pace of the 20th century: Luxury timepieces were made of gold—or better yet, with precious-metal bracelets—and, sometimes taking things a step further, with diamond hour markers and diamond-set bezels. At the same time, manufactures were competing against each other to develop thinner and thinner wristwatches. And suddenly, this oversized watch in stainless steel emerged; it was not only more expensive than many gold watches in those days, it also violated all conventions with its prominent size and extravagant shape.
Most surprisingly, it was the respected and eminent Patek Philippe workshops that dared commit this foul in the luxury category.
But as Patek Philippe’s president Philippe Stern admits today, this disregard of a taboo was a calculated move. An ongoing paradigm shift had been observed. Many wealthy individuals were very active, not only in their professional lives but in their leisure activities as well. They were at the helm of sailing yachts, raced down icy runs, and went running at Central Park at dawn to stay in shape. This new generation loved challenge and pursued dynamic lifestyles.
The thematic exhibition presents a retrospective tracing the rich history of the Nautilus, based on the historical archives of the manufacture, as well as a selection of Nautilus watches that marked the different periods of its existence. Visitors will thus discover the unique journey of the “enfant terrible disruptive design watch turned into legend” of the 1970s that left its mark on Patek Philippe’s history and contributed to its success.
From the Nautilus ‘Thematic Exhibition: 1976–2026’ at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva
The exhibition also offers visitors the rare opportunity to discover the 50th anniversary limited series of this iconic watch, available in four exclusive models.
The response to the Nautilus varied widely, ranging from “shocking” to “fantastic.” Thus, it was clear from the very beginning that the Nautilus was not a watch for everyone. It had its own following. And during the 1980s, this community of aficionados grew significantly. The size of the watch, initially criticized, turned into a unique selling proposition. The original 1976 Nautilus was affectionately nicknamed “Jumbo” and over the course of time, it appealed to more and more women, prompting the workshops to launch the Ref. 4700 in 1980. In 1981, the 37.5-mm wide Ref. 3800 was developed for narrower wrists. After production of the large Nautilus was discontinued in 1990, it remained Patek Philippe’s only casual watch for many years. The collection featured models in steel, steel/gold, and gold, and some were also crafted in platinum. But the Nautilus always retained its inimitable form with the lateral case extension ridges that were readily identifiable even from afar.
In 1998, Patek Philippe again presented a Nautilus in the original format, this time endowed with a proprietary complication: the WZI winding zone indicator. The year 2005 saw the launch of the first Nautilus with three complications: the Ref. 3712/1A with power-reserve indicator, moon phase, and analog date. The waiting lists kept by authorized Patek Philippe Retailers grew and grew, and after a while, the first Nautilus watches appeared in the catalogs of prestigious auction houses, sometimes fetching more than the cost of a new model. The enfant terrible had turned into a cult object and, once again, Patek Philippe demonstrated a deep commitment to tradition combined with a penchant for innovations in technology and design.
The exhibition runs from June 2026 until early 2027. The Patek Philippe Museum Geneva is at Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 7, Plainpalais, Geneva, open Tuesday through Friday, 2 to 6 pm, Saturday from 10 am to 6 pm, and Sunday from 2 to 6 pm.
