Jewelry will abound at the 33rd iteration of the León Exchange Online Auction, which will take place this October 26.
The catalog offers a fascinating glimpse into Philippine history through the magnificent works of opulent jewelers. Offering the works of three eminent creators, the 33rd León Exchange Online Auction is sure to catch the eye of many collectors.
The history of Philippine jewelry can be traced back to pre-colonial times, but its contemporary flourishing could be attributed to the creation of the Guild of Philippine Jewelers, Inc (GPJI).
In May 1986, GPJI was conceptualized by Ma. Luisa D. Unson, Antonio Marco, Shirley Yap, Edilberto Bravo, and Ronald L. Velayo, five jewelers who heeded the suggestion of the then head of the Center of International Trade, Expositions, and Missions (CITEM), Mina Gabor. They organized themselves to address the growing needs of their industry, as well as to harness the potential of their sector to become one of the major contributors to the country’s economy.
Throughout their establishment, the group appealed for fair taxation and laws to protect them from unfair trade practices. Thus, on May 3, 1986, GPJI was officially established. In the almost four decades since GPJI was officially recognized, it has served not just its members but the jewelry industry at large. Their competitions provide avenues for up-and-coming jewelers to gain traction. Among the winning pieces is jewelry up for grabs at this auction, including an exquisite neckpiece with “tears of joy” by Joyce Makitalo, and a winged neckpiece by Rex Geronimo.
GPJI had a huge hand in solidifying the foundations for the Philippine jewelry industry to truly flourish. As such, the pieces going on the block this weekend are truly magnificent, as the richness of the Philippine jewelry industry is reflected in the works at hand.
Hans Brumann
An Art Deco-style bracelet of natural saltwater pearls that are over 100 years old with diamonds, by Hans Brumann
Antique saltwater natural pearl ring with 18 full-cut diamonds, over 100 years old, from Hans Brumann
Among the eminent jewelry makers whose pieces are to be auctioned off is the Swiss-born Hans Brumann. Marking his beginnings at jewelry making with his apprenticeship in Zurich, Switzerland in 1957, Brumann followed his passion and studies all across Europe, making his way to Germany, and London before finding himself in Manila when he accepted a position at La Estrella Del Norte in 1967. By 1978, Brumann had become a Filipino citizen and established Hans Brumann Inc., a Makati-based business that catered to Manila’s elite.
Among his works offered are a beautiful Art Deco pearl bracelet and a natural pearl ring, both boasting natural saltwater pearls and diamonds. Perhaps an emerald ring is more suited to your fancy. Made of 18-karat yellow gold and platinum, this piece is adorned with a Colombian emerald, perfect for those who admire both beauty and history.
Chunky cocktail ring by Whisenhunt set in 14k yellow gold, designed in a double knife-edge style and diamonds weighing 0.45 carats
This modern diamond choker by Whisenhunt is designed to be worn asymmetrically, and comprised of G-H color, VS
clarity pear-shaped diamonds, linked on each side by channel-set baguette diamonds weighing 4.43 carats and set in 18k white gold.
Modern tubular hoop earrings by Whisenhunt, designed with an off-set back set in 14-karat yellow gold
In recent years, Filipina designer Nicole Whisenhunt rose to the challenge. Founding Whisenhunt in 2012, the jeweler remained faithful to the principles of artistry and craftsmanship, ensuring each piece is created with meaning in mind.
Ring with natural round brilliant center stone, approximately 3.8 to 4 carats and diamond ‘Old Mine’-cut side stones set in 14-karat yellow gold, weighing 9.9 grams in total
Ring with natural round brilliant center stone, approximately 4 carats, and diamond cut side stones, set in 14 karat yellow gold
As such, the modern styles of her rings and earrings, as evidenced by her chunky cocktail ring and modern hoop earrings (both available at the auction), portray Whisenhunt’s playful and hip style. An asymmetrical diamond choker shows Whisenhunt’s minimalist yet modern vision, with the 18k white gold used in the piece turning the jewelry into a beautifully simple work.
Family crest
Jesusa “Suzette” Malig Ayson of JMA Jewelry
Jesusa “Suzette” Malig Ayson of JMA Jewelry carries on a family tradition, as she grew up a third-generation jeweler. By founding of JMA Jewelry in 1995, she blended family tradition with her unique creative vision as she specialized in diamond grading and one-of-a-kind concept pieces.
5-in-1 diamond-studded vintage watch/bracelet (detachable to brooch). More than a timepiece, this piece tells a story of meticulous craftsmanship from bygone eras, seamlessly transforming into a bracelet watch and two-way brooch. Crafted in platinum, it weighs 39.70 grams and measures 6.5 inches.
This impeccable diamond grading is evident in a 5-in-1 diamond studded vintage bracelet. More than a timepiece, this flexible bracelet-slash-watch boasts meticulous craftsmanship and unique creative vision.
This exquisite antique Edwardian oval-shaped brooch with filigree setting, crafted circa 1915, features old cut diamonds spread across a lattice of delicate platinum, measuring 1.75 inches in length and 1 inch in width.
The Boucheron Paris cello pin is a stunning piece all set in 18K white gold, featuring an elegant design adorned with round diamonds and measuring 3 inches by 1 inch.
Other distinctive pieces, like an antique Edwardian brooch with old cut diamonds and a Boucheron Paris cello pin with round diamonds, are all up for grabs in this magnificent 33rd León Exchange Online Auction.
Doña Margarita Melian Zobel, fifth from left, wearing the large diamond brooch. Also in the photo are Doña Pilar Roxas (second from left) and Doña Natividad Melian Aboitiz (far right), ca. 1950.
Sylvia Melian Zobel de Ayala, daughter of Doña Margarita, wearing the brooch, ca.1920
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- Antonio Melian y Pavia
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- Margarita Zobel de Ayala
Aside from the majestic works of these jewelers, the collection of the late great Spanish-German heiress Doña Margarita Zóbel de Ayala is also up for grabs. Offering a fascinating glimpse into the life and legacy of one of the Philippines’s most illustrious families, Doña Margarita’s jewelry collection blends luxury with historical significance.
A Belle Epoque brooch with large diamond, pin and lock in 18-karat yellow gold, weighing a total of 14.9 grams. Center stone is Old European Cut, approximately 13 to 13.5 mm, 9.5 carats, with 49 Old Cut side stones.
A Belle Epoque brooch, made of 18-karat yellow gold with a 9.5-carat diamond at its center, might catch your fancy, or perhaps a diamond ring with a 4-carat brilliant cut center stone, set in 14-karat yellow gold.
The 33rd León Exchange Online Auction happens on October 26, starting at 11 am. Bidding will take place online at www.leonexchange.com.
To explore the online, visit Leon Gallery’s website. For inquiries, email info@leon-gallery.com or call tel. no. 8856-2781. Follow León Gallery on their social media for updates: Facebook @leongallerymakati and Instagram @leongallerymakati.
