‘Not imeldific, but Lisa-ific!’—Goldenberg Mansion opens with Puey Quiñones show

The Goldenberg Mansion, the stately cultural heritage that half of Manila’s perfumed society (summer heat or not) must be curious about, opened its doors to a few select guests, for the Puey Quiñones, Filipino collection Tuesday May 23. This must have been the first time in decades that this late 19^th century villa in San Miguel, Manila, a stone’s throw away from Malacanang Palace, was opened to the public. Formerly housing the Marcos Foundation, from here on, it will be used as an events place open for private bookings.

Puey, a leading fashion designer who cut his chops and made a name in Los Angeles ahead of his thriving clientele here, presented a very luscious collection of cutting-edge evening wear. His voluminous silhouettes in rich fabrics—silk, taffeta, tulle, name it—overpowered yet didn’t cross the line to “shock fashion.” He made some silhouettes flow, others structured, still others deconstructed, but he didn’t push his playful innovations to a state of confusion. He showed off construction tricks to yield humongous ruffles, thick layering, accordion pleating, over-puffed sleeves or bustle. His colors ranged from pastels to vibrant orange, turquoise, lavender, in combinations meant to make heads turn.

Long story short, it was a head-turning collection by a designer whose career has been one head-turner. Like how? His resilience has made even the jaded editors sit up and take notice. For instance, when his fashion design career took a hiatus, he dabbled in cooking and his specialties were good enough to draw guests to a dining place/kitchen he opened.

In recent years, he reclaimed his fashion design career with a vengeance.

His clout has become such that he was given the nod to start the fashion collection series at the Goldenberg Mansion, to be followed by Michael Leyva in July, possibly by Paul Cabral in the third quarter—although Cabral has always told us that he never wanted to stage a collection—and in November, possibly (again) by Lesley Mobo. This fashion series project is said to be led by trailblazing makeup artist Patrick Rosas (he popularized the nude look among the country’s celebrities, brides and runway models) and consummate stylist Michael Salientes (who raised the bar for fashion styling from the late ‘90s onwards). Rosas is the makeup artist and style adviser of First Lady Lisa Araneta Marcos.

As the opener of the series, Puey nudged some friend celebrities and A-Listers onto the ramp, led by, but of course, Small Laude, businessman Kevin Tan and wife Michelle, PAL president and COO Stanley Ng, Richard Gomez, indigenous fashion agenda-setter Marga Nograles, social media influencer Cat Antonio, diamond businessman Carl Fider, among others.

Emerging from behind the draped curtains, like in a theater—which hid, incidentally, the beautiful staircase we remembered admiring on our first visit at Goldenberg in the early ‘80s—the models walked their way in and around the ghost tiffany chairs that filled the foyer and living area of the mansion.

The Goldenberg Mansion was built in the late 19^th century and housed the Spanish Royal Navy Club. Among the loose facts gathered online:

After the battle of Manila Bay in 1898, it became the home and headquarters of Gen. Arthur MacArthur. In 1916 the Philippine Senate held its first session there. After World War II it was bought by industrialist Michael Goldenberg in 1950. In 1966 it was bought by then First Lady Imelda Marcos herself, was restored by National Artist Leandro Locsin in 1971, and had housed some visiting heads of state such as Indira Gandhi. It houses some beautiful collections and artifacts such as the Chinese jade furniture, excavated porcelain and pottery and the covetable Ban Chiang pottery of Thailand.

Rep. Sandro Marcos gave the welcome remarks in place of his mom, the First Lady Lisa Marcos, the guest of honor who he said was too timid to speak. He praised the repair and restoration work spearheaded by his mother in a short time, and said, “Not imeldific, but Lisa-ific!”—Thelma Sioson