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The beautiful sunrise and sunset of Mankayan left undiscovered by tourists

Adventure seekers brave long rides, steep climbs to discover remote villages and mist-covered mountain peaks

Mankayan
Sitio Am-am scenery unfolding from Madalipey view deck (All photos by Medel Sablaya)
Mankayan

Early morning walk to Baangan Escapade home stay

Mankayan

Farms of Mankayan, their colors coming from a variety of vegetables—broccoli, potato, cabbage, carrot

There are various words to describe the province of Benguet and its towns. Cold, panoramic, exhilarating are just some of them. Benguet is known for its mountainous landscapes and vegetable terraces, treacherous roads, cool climate (the elevation can reach up to more than 2,000m above sea level), and centuries-old cultural heritage and practices.

The ruggedness of its terrain and the thrill of exploring it have attracted adventure seekers looking for places that are untrodden and completely off-the-beaten track. They love to brave long and bumpy rides, steep climbs, and strenuous walks around remote villages and up mist-covered mountain peaks in sometimes inhospitable weather conditions.

In these places, time passes by slowly, mornings are golden, afternoons are hazy, and evenings are pitch black and quiet.

On the surface, Mankayan (94km from Baguio) may not be the place for discriminating travelers looking for eco-friendly and sustainable tourism; after all, it has been long known as a mining town and has often been called the bosom of gold and copper in Benguet. It is the site of several mines, including one of the oldest and biggest mining firms in the area, the Lepanto Consolidated Mining Company. Mankayan is so huge, it has its own airstrip, and a golf course.

But if you take a hard look, it has kept its many natural attractions and scenery that have been under the radar of tourists and travelers for the longest time. I myself found out about them only when I came across a video of a group of motorcycle riders traversing and exploring its obscure and isolated barangays. Their thrilling experience piqued my curiosity. Their admiration and awe of the scenery convinced me to look up Mankayan. Eventually I made up my mind: I should try it.

Mankayan

Path of daisies leading to the house atop a cliff

We were told there was only one available van per day bound for Sitio Am-am, Balili, Mankayan, from La Trinidad, Benguet, and it leaves 8:30 in the morning. My niece and I arrived early and waited until the van was almost full, then we set off.

After two hours, we made a pit stop in the town of Atok. At past noon, we made a long stopover in Brgy. Abatan market along Halsema Highway so that local passengers could buy fruits and groceries. We turned left at the junction— it was all beautiful vegetable terraces from there. The farms were green and fresh, probably from the previous night’s rain. Fog came slowly, covering most of the land. I had the impression that this was once a heavily forested area now converted into vast farmlands.

After about five hours of winding roads, we finally arrived in Sitio Am-am, a quiet small village. We asked friendly villagers around who pointed us to our homestay, the Baangan Escapade, our home away from home.

The author (middle) with villagers

Vegetable farms surround Balili, Mankayan, Benguet.

On a foggy day

On a clear day

Baangan Escapade is a quaint little place surrounded by flower and vegetable gardens. It is at the top of a cliff. At the back is a camping ground with a view deck facing the east, overlooking the picturesque neighboring towns below. Beside our homestay is a three-layered waterfall called Inudey, accessible via a clifftop path. That in itself is an awe-inspiring spectacle.

Madelipey/Am-am view deck

Mankayan

Solitary farmhouse

Farmers harvesting potatoes

Fresh produce

Catholic chapel shrouded in fog

Kids, hardly visible, playing basketball in the fog

As soon as we arrived, we were welcomed by Lina, the gracious owner, who showed us around. After fixing our things, we decided to go to one of their attractions, the Madalipey view deck. We passed by a strawberry farm and had a taste of the fresh harvest. We walked on an empty foggy road lined witgh farms. There was zero visibility when we got there. We walked around and waited for the sky to clear. We were hoping for a beautiful sunset, but it didn’t show up, as everything was covered in fog. Getting back, we walked around the village and passed by some kids playing basketball.

Chasing the sunrise in Baangan view deck

Mankayan

Morning sun on the farm

The following morning, we woke up early to catch the sunrise. We were lucky this time, as the sun slowly showed up and lit the surrounding towns below. It was so visually striking and uplifting, you didn’t want it to end.

Mankayan

Farms on flat terrain and on the cliff

Things to do
The farmland and the vegetable terraces are enough attractions to keep your enthusiasm. During the harvest season (usually towards the end of July onwards), you can join in the gathering of crops and buy produce from farmers. It is not only fun, but will also help the community livelihood.

You may also explore the village and the surrounding pine forest. Otherwise, enjoy your quiet walks alone.

Getting there
By public transport, take a cab or a jeepney from Baguio to La Trinidad and get off in front of King’s College. Take a van bound for Am-am, Balili. For private vehicles, take the Halsema Highway until Abatan and turn left at the junction.

Book your stay at Baangan Escapade through their Facebook page.

As there are no restaurants there, pack your own food, or you may use the kitchen in the homestay.

Remember to be friendly with the locals and show courtesy at all times.

Curfew is from 9 pm to 4 am.

About author

Articles

He gives young stars tutorials in Filipino, plays tennis, climbs the mountains of Sagada, and now braves the streets of Metro Manila on a bike.

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