Text and photos by Raoul J. Chee Kee
For the past four years, my friends from grade school and I have been going on short vacations, the first being Zamboanga in Mindanao. We saw precious little of the city then because of the searing heat, choosing instead to shelter in our airconditioned rooms after brief forays to Fort Pilar, the National Museum, and the overpriced Alavar seafood restaurant.
We have since flown to Chiang Mai in Thailand; Kaohsiung in Taiwan; and Hanoi, Hoi An, and Da Nang in Vietnam. In the Philippines, three of us flew to Siargao where we spent the time in the pool or deciding on where to have lunch and dinner.
The author (second from left) with friends from Ateneo
Planning for each trip with this group usually starts half a year in advance as we have to agree on the destination, inclusive dates, flight times, and accommodations. The computer whiz then presents the options in a series of online polls in the group chat that we then vote on. Breakfast is non-negotiable, preferably a buffet setup because we enjoy telling stories and lingering over the meal. It’s all very organized, which we appreciate.
Our recent trip to Bangkok was not very different. RJ came up with grids listing how much the flights and hotel accommodations cost per person. He also arranged for a van to pick us up at Suvarnabhumi. All we had to do was show up. Four of us flew to Bangkok from Manila, while our Canada-based friend timed his flight to arrive an hour after ours did.
On our first full day in Bangkok, Ernie woke up early, jetlagged from his almost day-long flight from Toronto. Since the buffet still hadn’t opened for breakfast, the two of us decided to explore the area around our hotel located in Pratunam. We walked the narrow side streets, noting the lack of real sidewalks, but thankful few vehicles were out that early in the morning.
Boat noodles for breakfast at One Food Center in Pratunam
When we were almost at Pratunam market, we spotted what looked like a hawker center, a covered hall housing a row of food stalls. We looked at the displays, split an order of boat noodles, and were pleased with the effort that obviously went into the preparation. In a ceramic bowl were placed thin rice noodles, sliced pork, beef, and pig’s liver, while a separate saucer held chilies, lime and mung beans; a trio of sauces in small jars was also placed on the table.
Stalls selling sticky mango rice in Pratunam
For just B100 (P190), we savored our first taste of Thai food even before our other companions had woken up. By the end of the trip, I had eaten thrice at One Food Center, sampling the chicken rice, pad Thai, and their milky ice tea.
During a second visit, we brought in a segment of fresh durian, thinking it wouldn’t be an issue since it was an open-air venue. Just as we were digging into the sweet but pungent fruit, one of the servers came up to our table waving her hands and forming an “X” with her forearms. Since we had already eaten half of the durian, we quickly gobbled down the rest, enduring the staff’s raised eyebrows.
The Royal Palace
‘Khon’ masked performers
The following day we headed to the Royal Palace, where we gazed at the gilt and mirrored surfaces, and listened to the chimes that line the roofs of the towering structures. We practically breezed through the complex, as our main reason for purchasing the ticket (B500 or P942) was because it granted us access to the traditional masked performance at the Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre.
Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre
The quick-paced performance combines masked characters and video imagery to present a story that was, in 2018, inscribed by UNESCO on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
The traditional masked performance at the Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre has been inscribed by UNESCO on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
There is a free shuttle that leaves the Royal Palace to take ticket holders to the theater for the three performances staged weekday afternoons at 1 pm, 2:30 pm, and 4 pm. We caught the second performance and were surprised at the huge turnout. The theater lobby was packed with tourists and locals (who watch for free). Once the theater doors were opened, all the seats were occupied within minutes.
The 25-minute Khon performance follows a young Hanuman, a monkey-like Hindu deity, as he gets himself in trouble for roaming without permission in the garden of Phra Uma, the wife of Lord Shiva. He is placed under a spell by Phra Uma that can only be broken after Rama strokes him from head to tail. Hanuman later pledges his loyalty to Rama and helps rescue Rama’s wife, Sita, who has been abducted.
Talat Noi in Bangkok’s Chinatown was known for its shops selling all sorts of auto parts
It was an interesting highlight to what would turn out to be a trip filled with several first-time experiences. One afternoon we explored Talat Noi, an older part of Bangkok’s Chinatown that was known for auto parts shops. There are still vestiges of the area’s industry, like grease-blackened wheels and chains, but perimeter walls have been painted over with murals. Dusty storefronts have undergone adaptive reuse, emerging as novelty shops, with one turned into a specialty store selling rich chocolate drinks.
Lunch at home was cooked food and fresh fruit purchased at a nearby temple.
A Bangkok-based friend hosted lunch in his condo located near the Chao Phraya on another day. He did what most locals do, purchased cooked food instead of slaving over a hot stove. Albert didn’t have to go to several places, as many of the vendors sold their wares at a nearby temple. There was grilled chicken and fish, spicy somtam (green papaya salad) flavored with fermented crab, and sticky rice that one formed into bite-sized balls. For dessert, we peeled open the sweetest mangosteens and lanzones.
Michelin-recognized chicken noodles at the Siam Paragon food court
As I’ve discovered when traveling with a group for longer than three days, there eventually comes a time when I feel the need to explore on my own. The five of us by then had been moving as one unit, sharing cabs, meals, and stories before going off on our own. At Siam Paragon, one of Bangkok’s true mega malls, I chanced upon a stall in the food court recognized by Michelin for its chicken noodles for several consecutive years. There was no queue, and as I slurped down my super spicy solo merienda, I knew I’d be back—whether with friends who have come to understand and accept each other’s idiosyncrasies, or on my own.
