Home and Kitchen Diaries

How we made it to Michelin—will it work for PH?

Chefs Chele Gonzalez, Don Baldosano, Jamie Doe, Cara Jalandoni Davis, Aida’s Chicken Inasal—the passion behind the food

From top clockwise: Chef Chele Gonzalez, Mary Jane Tarrosa Espino of Aida's Chicken House at MCS with husband Arnel, Chef Cara Davis of Hálong, Jamie Doe at The Pig and Palm

The inaugural MICHELIN Guide Manila and Environs | Cebu was met with a mix of surprise and validation that Filipino chefs can compete on the global stage while staying true to local roots. For the first time, the country’s culinary talent was judged by the same anonymous inspectors who evaluate restaurants in Paris, Tokyo, and New York, resulting in a selection that spans fine dining, regional flavors, and enduring classics.

The Department of Tourism went into partnership with the Michelin Guide to showcase the country’s culinary diversity and cement the Philippines as a serious dining destination. Like other Asian countries that fund Michelin inspections—among them Thailand, Malaysia, and Singapore—the Philippines provides financial support, though Michelin retains full independence in its evaluations. The identities of its inspectors remain strictly confidential.

The Philippines made a striking entrance onto the global dining map with the inaugural MICHELIN Guide Manila and Environs | Cebu, a selection that placed local kitchens beside the world’s best and signaled that Filipino restaurants can meet international benchmarks of quality and consistency. 

To bring the guide here, the Department of Tourism entered a formal partnership with Michelin so inspectors could carry out thorough, anonymous visits across the country. 

TheDiarist.ph spoke with five establishments that represent the range and character of Philippine dining today—from globally trained chefs recasting local ingredients to a humble institution that embodies the heart of Filipino cooking.

Spanish chef Chele Gonzalez, who honed his craft in Spain’s modernist temples—  the three-star Michelin Arzak, the two-star Mugaritz, and El Bulli (named the World’s Best Restaurant multiple times by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants)— brought that same rigor to the Philippines. His Gallery by Chele and Asador Alfonso both earned Michelin stars. His food bridges progressive techniques and Filipino produce and Spanish ingredients. 

Chef Cara Jalandoni Davis trained in three Michelin-star restaurants in New York and Chicago and brought Michelin-level precision to Halong in Metro Manila, whose blend of Asian and Mexican flavors earned a Bib Gourmand within a year of opening. Before returning to Manila, she founded Mestiza in Tulum, Mexico, after working at Arca, which was in the World’s Best 50 Restaurants.

In Cebu, British chef Jamie Doe upholds the high standards of Jason Atherton’s Michelin-star group at The Pig & Palm, where he creates modern tapas from local ingredients. His work collaborated with Atherton in the City Social in London which earned a Michelin star. 

Don Baldosano, the homegrown talent behind Linamnam, proved that world-class cooking can thrive even without foreign training. He earned three citations, including Young Chef of the Year. 

And the basement of an old mall, the venerable Aida’s Chicken Inasal, unchanged in its devotion to flavor and tradition for half a century, showed that simplicity can still move inspectors used to tasting the world’s best.

‘Every time I make  a dish, I taste it maybe a hundred times’— Chef Chele Gonzalez

Spanish chef Chele Gonzalez has received many citations: a Michelin One Star for Gallery by Chele, and a Green Star for the Sustainability Award. Likewise, Asador Alfonso in Cavite holds a Michelin One Star, while Cantabria at Westin Manila and Enye at Crimson Resort and Spa in Cebu are listed in Michelin Select. 

Gonzalez trained in Spain’s where he absorbed the discipline and daring of chefs who treated ingredients as both science and story.

“I’m a chef who is very technical, very precise and operates at a high level in cooking,” he says. “We start with good ingredients, but the harmony of flavors comes from you, the artist, composing another piece. Every time I make  a dish, I taste it maybe a hundred times, to make sure that the sauce and textures match in order to create something exceptional. A chef is someone who knows how to use the right technique, maintain top-tier standards, and make sure everything on the plate is in harmony. Years of experience give you that sensitivity on your palate to compose those dishes. For me, that’s what makes a chef a chef.”

He underscores, “Food needs to be tasty—yummy. You play around with tradition or innovation,” he says. “While Asador Alfonso follows tradition, bringing the highest level to the tables, we don’t do any innovation there. In Gallery, it’s all about creating new things.”

Opened in 2013, Gallery by Chele  propelled fine dining in the Philippines by marrying global technique with local ingredients and traditions. Gonzalez and his team travel across the country to source seasonal produce and work closely with farmers and artisans. Though the chef maintains that Gallery is not a Filipino restaurant, its dishes are often inspired by local flavors and stories, interpreted through a modern lens that honors both place and craft. Its repeat inclusions in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, a rare distinction for a Philippine establishment, affirms its role in bringing the country’s cuisine to the global stage.

The menu changes every year, each time built around a single ingredient. Last year it was cacao; this year, it’s coconut, under the theme Tree of Life, reflecting its deep roots in Filipino culture not only in food but also in daily life. 

One of the dishes that remains constant is the Kare-Kare Bonbon, a crisp sphere filled with rich peanut stew made from beef cheeks, lightened with a brown emulsion of egg and fat and paired with bagoong mayo. 

Palawan Lobster at Gallery by Chele

Other courses echo the coconut theme: crystal bread made with kuzu and coconut; pintos inspired by the Visayan tamales-like dish of corn and coconut; and Fired! Pulpo,  an octopus served with chicken jus and coconut vinegar. The Palawan Lobster is slipper lobster grilled yakitori-style over calamansi mash, finished with a Sorsogon sea urchin emulsion enriched with coconut.

Pintos Tamales at Gallery by Chele

Gallery by Chele earned its Michelin Green Star by making sustainability part of its daily rhythm. The restaurant works directly with Filipino farmers, foragers, and indigenous communities, using heirloom rice, endemic plants, and responsibly caught seafood. 

Tomato Sinigang at Gallery by Chele

Its vegetable and food scraps are composted in an on-site greenhouse, which nourishes a vertical garden that, in turn, supplies fresh greens and herbs back to the menu—a circular system that feeds itself. 

Zero Waste nibbles from excesses: seafood ice cream with uni, jicama, and bignay; Wagyu longganisa in crisp taro puff shell; tomato sinigang in one bite

This philosophy extends to its Zero Waste nibbles from excesses: seafood ice cream with uni, jicama, and bignay; Wagyu longganisa in crisp taro puff shell; tomato sinigang in one bite; and a caramel-colored tamarind cocktail, all proving sustainability can be both inventive and flavorful.

Asador’s signature roasted baby suckling pig from Spain

Unlike Gallery by Chele’s tasting-menu format, Asador Alfonso in Tagaytay offers both à la carte dishes and a multi-course meal built around a Spanish firewood oven. The asador brings whole cochinita, baby pig marinated in annatto seed paste, from Segovia, chazó or baby suckling lamb, Mediterranean red prawns and sole from Spain, and seasonal items such as porcini, artichokes, or asparagus, while vegetables and herbs come from the restaurant’s farm and Cavite growers. Each service unfolds as a sequence of roasted mains and seasonal interludes. The chef’s idea of gastronomic journey is that meat and seafood take on smoke and depth from the oven, balanced by fresh produce so the meal reads as a passage through Spanish roast traditions adapted to local ingredients.

Arroz Negro de Viera y Chipiron (Black ink creamy rice with grilled scallops, baby squid and herb aioli by Cantabria

Cantabria at The Westin Manila channels Gonzalez’s roots in northern Spain, where the Atlantic shapes both the landscape and the table. It has a seafood bar displaying the freshest catch and fish imported from Spain. Seafood was a special-occasion meal in his youth, before the rise of steakhouses. The menu is anchored on seafood, such as wild turbot grilled as Rodaballo a la Parrilla, snapper lifted with avocado-lime salsa, Irish Gallagher oysters brightened with green apple and sherry mignonette, and Hokkaido scallops folded into celeriac purée and white chocolate. The squid-ink Arroz Negro de Viera y Chipiron is creamy and topped with scallops, baby squid, and herb aioli.  

Dessert is Sobao, a buttery sponge cake from Gonzalez’s hometown, its simplicity recalls home kitchens and shared Sunday meals long before the Michelin stars.

Enye at Crimson Resort in Cebu brings together the breadth of Spanish cuisine, dividing its menu between traditional dishes and modern chef-driven creations that draw inspiration from around the world. Signatures include Paella de Marisco loaded with tiger prawns, mussels, and scallops, and Grilled Pulpo—octopus coated in crisp breadcrumbs and served with egg yolk and paprika beef jus. 

Its signature dish, the Cebu Lechon Taco, captures the meeting of Spain and the Philippines, layered with mango salsa, frijoles mousse, and sour cream. This was inspired by his first encounter with Cebu lechon’s mix of ginger, lemongrass, and garlic. The flavors were so aromatic they became the spark for one of Enye’s defining plates.

‘It’s the way Filipinos would cook: simple and straightforward’—Don Baldosano

When a chef has been changing his tasting menu five days a week for seven years—rarely repeating a dish and clearly enjoying the risk—he’s either reckless or gifted. Patrick “Don” Baldosano, 27, of Linamnam in Parañaque, is the latter. His 10-seat private dining restaurant earned a Michelin One Star and a Young Chef Award for its mix of French precision, Filipino soul, and sheer spontaneity. 

Trained at Enderun’s École Ducasse program under Executive Chef Marc  Chalopin after studying culinary arts at the De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde, Baldosano learned what he calls “the rigor of doing things right every time”—discipline, consistency, and respect for standards. 

Unlike many peers with years of foreign experience, he’s home-produced. His secret, he says, is simple: “I love what I do.” 

That love fuels 18-hour days in the kitchen and two-day foraging trips across the Philippines during his days off. 

In Lucena, Quezon, he gathered coconuts, salted shrimp, and fermented tofu. The farthest he has visited is Cagayan de Oro for biasong, a wild citrus considered a botanical treasure, and tabon-tabon, a pulpy fruit that tames the smell of fish and adds a sour-sweetness to a dish. These rare ingredients most Filipinos have never tasted and his innovative way of elevating common ingredients have become his muse and his signature. 

Ironically, Baldosano says he used to despise Filipino food when he started cooking. A year before he opened his own restaurant, a friend asked what he wanted to accomplish. Baldosano said, “To earn a Michelin star.” The friend replied, “Nobody has ever merited Michelin stars without knowing their cuisine.” 

Since then, Baldosano has been visiting different provinces to find new ingredients for his restaurants. “It keeps us entwined with what we cook,” he says.

Pusit Tart at Linamnam

At Linamnam, he explores Filipino food through local ingredients and old techniques. A pork hock stew cooked like traditional tinola arrives in a clay pot, its broth scented with ginger and vegetables. A classic dish of winged beans in coconut milk is given a modern treatment with aged, seared trevally over coconut cream. Homemade butter is fortified with salted, sun-dried fish. The marine flavors of the fish are balanced by the edible flowers from the garden. 

“It’s called Linamnam because the way you balance flavors. Linamnam  is the soul of Filipino food,” Baldosano says. “That’s why we patterned our name after what Filipino food should be.” 

For him, linamnam is essentially umami — that elusive depth that ties a dish together. “It’s a flavor that’s there, but you can’t really explain; it just completes the entire dish,” he says. 

There’s no single ingredient that creates that flavor. Instead, it comes from the fermenting, layering, tasting, and timing. “It’s the way Filipinos would cook: simple and straightforward.”

This fine dining restaurant has no printed menu; dishes depend entirely on what farmers and fishermen bring each week. “By afternoon, I start building the menu,”  Baldosano says. 

The spontaneity comes from a deep respect for what the land can offer at any moment. For personalized touch, Baldosano presents every course, whether from the 11- or 16-course tasting menu which offers six desserts. “There is a different process for each dish,” he says. “I normally work on the spot.”  

Some elements repeat, but rarely a full dish. “Sometimes, when we have a burnt rice component, we use it in different ways,” he says. 

One dish begins with tutong blended into caramelized milk fat; the smoky starch and rich dairy are balanced by the sharp warmth of ginger root and finished with a crisp layer of fried allium.

Linamnam’s philosophy is rooted in seasonality. “We’ve been so used to cooking whatever’s available in the markets,” he explains. “But if we really want to cook good food, we have to follow the seasons here.”

In the rainy months, the kitchen works with native mushrooms, wild greens like uray (local spinach), and watery gourds such as kundol and upo. “There’s a huge micro-season in the Philippines,” Baldosano says. “Every two or three weeks, the whole thing changes for us.” 

As a result of the Michelin star award, reservations are available only in January. Linamnam is at 31 Greenvale 2, Paranaque.

Lechon de Carajay at Offbeat Bistro

The new casual dining restaurant, Offbeat Bistro at Ayala Triangle Gardens landed in Michelin Select. It is a business and creative partnership with chef-columnist Angelo FC Comsti. Its popular dishes include Inihaw na Papaya Rice, Lechon Carajay, and Lumpiang Kulawo. 

Lumpiang Kulawo draws inspiration from an old Laguna specialty

The Lechon Carajay follows an ancient northern method of slow-frying pork belly in its rendered fat until golden, yielding both crunch and succulence. Lumpiang Kulawo draws inspiration from an old Laguna specialty where banana blossoms or eggplant are grilled over live coals, then simmered in smoky coconut milk.  Offbeat Bistro uses chopped charred vegetables, tossed with fresh sprouts and chayote, and wrapped into a crisp roll served with a coconut-vinegar dip that recalls the traditional  firewood aroma of kulawo.

Ginataang Pancit at Offbeat Bistro at ATG

Comsti told us in an online chat, “I think we are the youngest on the list at eight months. Being recognized by Michelin made us more confident in what we do and more known to many people. There have been many inquiries and reservations as a result. More media outlets have expressed interest in a feature.”

On his different restaurants, Baldosano explains, “The idea is just to do different concepts of Filipino food to highlight the different nuances of our cuisine.”

‘What we’re really offering is care on a plate’— Jamie Doe

The Pig and Palm builds its menu around pork, Cebu’s culinary pride, served in small plates meant for sharing. Executive chef Jamie Doe works closely with small farmers and fishermen to source fresh local produce, importing only what can’t be found nearby. 

“We focus on what goes on the plate—it may look simple, but there’s a lot of technique behind it,” he says. 

Grilled Kurobuta pork chop, apple, sweet potato puree and black pudding at The Pig and Palm

Their signature pork belly, a staple since day one, undergoes a meticulous process: deboned, cured, grilled, rolled, tied, and sous-vide for 48 hours before being chilled, sliced, and served. The result is deeply seasoned meat, brined so flavor permeates every layer. A newer favorite, the Kurobuta pork chop—dubbed the Wagyu of pork—is imported from the US.

Red grouper and local mussels are sourced fresh, then treated like the meats: they’re brined to firm the flesh and carry flavor through the piece. The grouper is cooked skin-side down on a plancha to render and crispen the skin, then finished in the oven so the thick fillet cooks evenly. For grain, adlai is blanched, then simmered in stock made from mushrooms and mussels; butter is whisked in to form an emulsion that rounds and glues the components together. Local mussels also go into that mushroom-mussel stock, contributing brine to the sauce. Some are served whole with the fish for texture and contrast. 

Their signature pork belly undergoes a meticulous process: deboned, cured, grilled, rolled, tied, and sous-vide for 48 hours before being chilled, sliced, and served

The plate is finished with a pipe of truffle aioli, pickled shimeji for acidity, and raw brown mushroom for bite—few ingredients, used in several forms, to create layered texture and a clear seafood-forward profile.

Having worked in Michelin-star restaurants, Doe says that what The Pig & Palm shares with them is not the glitz or the scale, but the discipline. “Consistency is key,” he explains. “It’s about making sure that every guest who walks in has the same experience every time.”

The techniques, too, come straight out of Michelin kitchens. “Once you’ve worked in that environment for so long, it’s hard not to carry that precision into your own kitchen,” he says. Every element is checked before service, every dish tasted before it leaves the pass. “In a kitchen, anything can happen to an ingredient. The only way to control it is to taste, to check, every single day. That’s the discipline.”

That exactness, more than the flash of presentation, defines The Pig & Palm. The restaurant’s Bib Gourmand recognition reflects exactly that: high-quality food at honest value. “Our average spend is about P2,150 per person,” Doe says, “but what we’re really offering is care on a plate.”

‘My style is to build layers of flavor’—Chef Cara Jalandoni Davis 

Hálong means “nurture” in Ilonggo, which the kitchen expands to its cooking.  “My style is to build layers of flavor,” says chef-owner Cara Jalandoni Davis, who blends the acidity and smokiness of Mexican cuisine with the salty-sweet-umami balance of Asian cooking, resulting in dishes that are bright, spicy, and precise. 

“I wanted to set myself apart from other chefs here, which is why I integrated Mexican flavors into my food after living there for seven years,” Davis says. “There’s a lot to consider when making a menu, and there’s pressure, too. We focus on enjoying what we do and creating something memorable. Developing a unique flavor is essential in a restaurant because that’s what keeps people coming back.”

Best seller Sesame Noodles at Hálong

Although the menu changes monthly, the most popular dishes have become staples. The top-selling Cold Sesame Noodles blend fermented tofu for umami depth, mirin for sweetness, Szechuan peppercorn and morita chili for heat, and sesame for nuttiness—“a simple dish that unfolds in layers,” Davis says. 

Seared Lapu-Lapu, mushrooms, adlai at The Pig and Palm

The Lapu-Lapu uses a house-made yuzu kosho, a spicy-citrusy condiment, from calamansi and farm-grown habaneros (intense chilis)  to give the sauce its citrusy spice. 

Bone Marrow at Hálong

The Bone Marrow comes with roasted nam prik (a savory, sweet spicy Thai chili,) dried shrimp, caramelized shallots, tamarind, and Siberian oxtail. 

The uni toast is made pescatarian, with a French-style uni butter replacing foie gras. The butter is emulsified with a reduction of shallots infused with kombu, bonito flakes, and sake, then combined with local uni and grated over the toast. It is paired with a guajillo-umeboshi jam made from Korean plum syrup, salty-sour umeboshi plums, and a touch of guajillo chili, creating a layered balance of sweet, tangy, and spicy flavors.

Many of the chilis and specialty ingredients at Halong come from Mexico, but when they are unavailable, they are grown on the restaurant’s farm in Silang, Cavite, including tomatillos (Mexican husk tomato), habaneros, passion fruit, and poblano peppers. 

Most vegetables and proteins are sourced locally, with meats from Kitayama, while live crabs and shrimp are selected fresh daily from markets such as Guadalupe. By combining imported, farm-grown, and carefully chosen local ingredients, the restaurant ensures freshness, quality, and flavors that are difficult to replicate.

“This year, my goal was to focus on the flavors of our food and to find my identity here in the Philippines. Every country I’ve lived in has different expectations from customers, so I wanted to discover a middle ground—what I enjoy cooking and what people enjoy eating here. That’s been our direction this year, focusing on the dishes I love and the flavors that matter. Michelin, I think,  looks at what’s on the plate; they focus on the food itself, not the design or the service,” says Davis.

Aida’s Chicken Inasal built its reputation on one constant: the heirloom marinade

Aida’s Chicken Inasal, the Bacolod original awarded a Michelin Select, built its reputation on one constant: the heirloom marinade. Each quartered chicken—pecho (breast with wings), thigh, liver, or gizzard—is salted and soaked for two hours in a measured mix of calamansi, ginger, and seasonings before grilling over charcoal. 

“The success of the marinade is when the flavors spread to the bones,” says second-generation proprietor Mary Jane Tarrosa Espino. 

The kitchen uses only “true vinegar” from Negros—naturally fermented sukang tuba from coconut sap or sukang ilog from sugarcane juice. 

Aida’s famous chicken inasal

Since the Michelin announcement, sales have doubled: from 180 chicken inasal orders a day to nearly twice that number, with queues forming at mealtimes. A solo order costs P165 pesos, or P 215 with rice and grilled eggplant salad topped with salted red egg is what differentiates it from other chicken houses.

Founded in 1975 by housewife Aida Tarrosa, the business began as a Bacolod carinderia.  At 2 pm, she would serve the chicken inasal, which was plumper and juicier than the rest of the stalls in Bacolod’s “Manokan country.” 

The restaurant later expanded to Makati under her son Toto, who opened a branch near his photo studio at Makati Cinema Square. The Tarrosa siblings now run the Bacolod branches. Espino handles the lone NCR branch which sources meats from local markets under veterinary certification required by the Philippine Meat Inspection Code.

All ingredients come from Negros Occidental, such as the sinamak vinegar, batuan souring agent, aswete (annatto seeds), and even the thick bamboo skewers brought from Bacolod because local ones are too thin, says Espino. 

Ginamos, a cubed fermented anchovy paste, remains essential to Negrense cooking, flavoring vegetables, rice, and grilled dishes.

Aida’s also serves  heirloom recipes such as adobo, menudo, paksiw and kalabasa sa gata made with native vegetables, Bacolod bagoong and tuba vinegar. The Michelin Guide described the squash in coconut as “nourishing and heartwarming.” The popular Ilonggo Express is the winged bean and meat dish, drenched in coconut milk. 

Other Negrense favorites include stuffed squid with rice, tomatoes, and onions marinated in calamansi and either grilled or fried, kinilaw na tanigue cured in tuba  Recent innovations, the pancit canton and bihon are topped with chicken inasal and liver.

The kansi, a beef shank soup that joins the richness of bulalo  and the tang of batuan, is highlighted by annatto seeds.  Raved by foodies, the squash curry with prawns and beans, comes with a cream dory fillet. 

The serving of the salted fried rice with dried labahita is famously large—enough for four, sometimes more—and often met with applause before the first bite. It’s a small ritual that says as much about Aida’s as the food itself.

‘….after seeing the results, I have mixed feelings’ 

Veteran Belgian hotelier Philippe Bartholomi has been quite picky about the choices in the Michelin Guide 2026.  

Focusing on its impact, he says, “The arrival of the Michelin Guide in the Philippines is a big moment for our food scene. I genuinely wanted to be excited about it. But after seeing the results, I have mixed feelings. Some truly excellent restaurants like Old Manila, Benjarong, and Blackbird were only Michelin Selected, while a few others received higher distinctions that, honestly, felt inconsistent. It makes me question how Michelin’s global standards are being applied locally. I’ve always admired what Michelin represents—precision, consistency, and respect for culinary excellence. But in recent years, especially across Asia, I’ve felt that some of that rigor has faded. Recognizing Filipino cuisine requires not just technical expertise but also cultural understanding — something I hope will deepen in future editions,” he said

 He noted that the Guide can still bring tangible benefits even to the Philippine dining market, which isn’t as lucrative as Singapore or Tokyo.

“Michelin recognition can boost brand credibility and prestige locally and internationally; attract tourists seeking fine dining experiences; provide media exposure that’s otherwise hard for smaller restaurants to achieve, and create opportunities for collaborations, partnerships, or events. For many restaurants here, even modest increases in foot traffic or catering opportunities can be significant. While the market is smaller, the Michelin stamp carries aspirational value: It signals that the Philippines has culinary talent on the global stage. 

‘I believe too much importance was given to fancy restaurants offering 12 to 16 tiny plates of pseudo-Filipino food’

“Ultimately, it’s a start. With more local insight and appreciation for the diversity of Filipino flavors, future editions can better reflect the richness of our culinary scene  and help restaurants grow sustainably, beyond just awards. However, I believe too much importance was given to fancy restaurants offering 12 to 16 tiny plates of pseudo-Filipino food. I don’t see how those will help make Filipino food more popular,” he adds.

He expressed concern over two Bib Gourmand eateries—literally holes in the wall. “I do not want to put them down because I know they work hard for their livelihood. I question if putting them in the world of Michelin will be good to promote Filipino food to the world when it comes to hygiene and sanitation. I can already imagine the faces of many foreign tourists who will look for them to try them out.”

While quality control is always a concern, the partnership is foremost about economic impact. The Department of Tourism sees success not just in higher tourist arrivals, but also in the livelihoods the industry sustains. 

By spotlighting Philippine restaurants, the Michelin Guide is expected to draw more visitors, spark new business opportunities, and boost local food production for the culinary sector.

About author

Articles

She is a veteran journalist who’s covered the gamut of lifestyle subjects. Since this pandemic she has been giving free raja yoga meditation online.

    Newsletter
    Sign up for our Newsletter

    Sign up for Diarist.ph’s Weekly Digest and get the best of Diarist.ph, tailored for you.

    Leave a Reply

    Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *