I feel very privileged that Silk Cocoon became part of another historical event—the 2026 ASEAN Summit. The Philippines hosted this significant gathering, with the theme “Navigating Our Future Together.”
‘Barong’ worn by Social Welfare and Development Secretary Rex Gatchalian is based on Silk Cocoon’s ‘bib design,’ which Goulbourn made with embroidered leaves and bamboo buttons. She used the same bib design on the ASEAN boat logo and 11 stalks in a medallion, representing the 11 member states.
In the 35th ASEAN Socio-Cultural Community Council meetings March 3-5, 2026, chaired by Social Welfare and Development Secretary Rex Gatchalian, our biggest joy was hearing the positive feedback from the team, how the ministers and senior officials were very happy with their barong and the ladies’ kimona, with inspired new sleeves that created a buzz among the lady ministers.
Thirty years ago, when we opened Silk Cocoon at New World Hotel, then barely six months old, we got the chance to dress up the heads of state hosted by then President Fidel V. Ramos for the APEC Summit in 1996. My designs for our handwoven silk barong with hand embroidery were called “The Windows to the World.” It was about the world looking in on us as we glimpsed all the possibilities of our islands. In line with that theme, I researched on the architecture of old homes, from north to south.
This time, the message figuratively relates to navigating the seas and our relationships in the region. This year’s logo was inspired by the balangay from Butuan, dating back to the 10th century.
Considering our country’s rich maritime heritage, the photo of the balangay was so exciting for me to work with for my embroidery designs.
For the hand embroidery, I tried to capture three different angles of the balangay. Then I decided to create the wave’s graceful movement—creating depth is important in embroidery—bringing it to life.
I have always been fascinated by the sun in our Philippine flag, so I thought, why not place it on the shoulder, and I decided to continue the moving, graceful waves diagonally to the back of the barong.
Secretary Gatchalian and designer Jean Goulbourn
I feel like I am part of history, and the timelessness of the Silk Cocoon barong makes me proud that the foreign dignitaries went back home with a souvenir of our cultural heritage.
Through the decades, I have been given the gift to mentor countless numbers of embroiderers, and I chat and share with them to continue the tradition by passing it down to their grandchildren. My team of sewers, embroiderers and weavers cried with joy seeing the photos of their work on the ASEAN stage. I tell them, “This is your work, each thread you weave, each stitch you sew and thread you pull to create the boats, the waves.”
Each of us help in continuing the conversation of “We love our country,” and we share love with our neighboring Asian countries. We shall support each other and respect each other.
I explain to them the significance of the ASEAN conference, that I chose to come back from New York and be here in the Philippines when I began my RTW line 50 years ago, and to give my very best to our country.
Though I’m involved in running the first foundation NGF/ Hopeline to help prevent the rising incidence of suicide in the country, and I am the national representative to IASP (International Association for Suicide Prevention), my heart continues to beat as an artist, and doing these barongs gave me a very nostalgic feeling going back to 30 years ago, in 1996, when I had the honor of dressing APEC Heads of State under President Fidel V. Ramos, as well as other historical events thereafter.
These memories let me look back to 50 years as a designer and 30 years of weaving silk. I wish to do so much more because this digital age is a great challenge for the world. Going back to basics, to tradition and our culture, is most precious; the preservation of our fashion heirloom is in our hands.
I hope each ASEAN minister carries home with him or her a lasting symbol of the Philippine cultural heritage, craftsmanship, and pride, one that reflects the enduring spirit of unity and a shared future among ASEAN member states.
